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Jura
An hour's drive east of Beaune lies the 1450 hectare Cotes du Jura umbrella appellation, comprising the Arbois, Arbois-Pupillon, Chateau-Chalon and L'Etoile viticultural zones. Chateau-Chalon is the smallest at 690 hectares and most prized for its Vin Jaune, first made in the 14th century.
The area is dramatically beautiful, as much for its sub-alpine landscape as for its remarkable wines, which draw on an essentially continental climate, a multi-faceted and varied terroir (limestone crowns over blue, red and grey marl), and indigenous varietals of Savagnin, Trousseau and Poulsard, alongside Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
In a style not dissimilar to sherry, a flor or voile is encouraged to grow on all good Savagnins which effectievly start out as a Vin Jaune, before being pulled after a few years in cask, undisturbed, to be bottled as Cotes du Jura (often blended with some Chardonay).
Vin Jaune itself requires 6 years and 3 months to graduate, again non-ouillees/not topped up, before being bottled in the traditional 62cl 'Clavelin', with the Chateau-Chalon appellation the finest source. The red Poulsard & Trousseau make fascinating dry wines, yet also are blended together with Savagnin when making the delicious Vin de Paille, which demands low yields of 20 hl/ha, at least 6 weeks shrivelling on straw mats, followed by 3 years in cask before bottling.